Tour to Elbquelle 2012

Dear Tour-de-Europe friends,
after my short "execution mail" of 5.8.2012 on the subject of "Elbquellentour 2012" I now want to comply with the request of the Navigator and report something more detailed. One can not simply cancel such an event - after all, the spectators are waiting, the sponsorship contracts must be fulfilled, and, and, and ... This time, before the official start of the first stage, the overall winner of the tour was already determined - the Oldi. :-)
For the uninformed, let's take it one step at a time:

The year 2012 was special for tour-d-europe. We had reduced this year's regular tour to a 5-day tour to the source of the river Elbe due to scheduling reasons (in May, 2 members already had the Istanbul tour in their calendars, the navigator also had a special bike-free mission in Mongolia). The sign-up on 6.7. was still a success, but there was still no definite commitment to participate from some old-timers. The tour was planned from 1.8. to 5.8. with start and finish in Dresden. The second day would lead to Spindleruv Mlyn. Day 3 would have been a hike to the spring of the Elbe followed by a short stage to Harrachov. Afterwards, we would return to Dresden via Poland within two days.

It was good to hear that the Joker had agreed by phone to take part in at least 2 stages. And then, as a special highlight, we had an Amazon in the starting field for the first time with Lena from Moscow. As there were no further commitments over the next few days, the final line-up was Joker, Navigator, Oldi and Lena.

Stage 1 - From Dresden to Zittau, 129 km

The weather promises to play along to some extent. On 1.8. at around 8am, the navigator, the oldie and our Amazon set off for the official start at the "tank washing plant". And then it happens: After about 2km, at the "notorious" Lehmberg in Briesnitz, the navigator looks too long behind and collides with the curb on the descent. A few passers-by immediately fetch the first aid kit from their car. We are lucky: the navigator is able to get up and apart from a deep wound on his knee, it is just the large abrasions typical of cyclists. We ride on to the official meeting point.

But the adrenalin effect slowly wears off, the pain comes and the question arises: should you start a 5-day tour with such a handicap. Unfortunately, we are now missing the team doctor. With a very heavy heart, the navigator (the organiser of the tour and the person who knows the way) throws in the towel. Now things are getting tight. Contrary to all previous announcements, the Joker plans to ride only the first stage. That leaves the Oldi and the Amazon. That would be feasible - but it might give a somewhat "funny" impression. But we could say we are father and daughter. ;-)

Well, in the end the tour has to be done and the Oldi proposes to try it alone. But Joker and Lena are sportsmen and offer to escort me to Bad Schandau. With a slight delay, around 9am, the first stage starts with the destination Zittau.

The following is now a quick summary of the remaining 500 km.

First we take the Elbe cycle path to Bad Schandau. There's no need to say anything else about it - everyone knows it. We stop again at the "Goldener Anker" restaurant and have an ice cream sundae as a farewell.

Somehow it then comes up that Switzerland will be on the programme for tour-d-europe in 2013. The Joker likes this suggestion. He knows he has something to make up for and is tempted to swear on the restaurant menu that he will be there in 2013. This is hereby made public worldwide! :-)

The Oldi, that is me, sets off at around 1pm and first follows the tracks of the Kirnitzschtal tramway. I want to stick to the route worked out by the navigator. Since I don't have to take anyone into consideration, the 5-day tour is to become a 4-day tour. If you get up at sunrise, it should be doable, and on the second day - if you reach Spindlermühle by 6 p.m. - you should also be able to reach the source of the Elbe.

From Bad Schandau to Zittau, the route through the Schluckenauer Zipfel is an attractive option. After Sebnitz, you leave Germany and then drive via Sluknov (Schluckenau) and Rumburk through a varied hilly landscape, returning to Germany in Seifhennersdorf and back to the Czech Republic in Varnsdorf. Zittau is then only a stone's throw away. The campsite at Olbersdorfer See is chosen for the overnight stay. It is part of a recreational area that was created in connection with the renaturation of the Olbersdorf open-cast mine.

So: Day 1 everything fine.

Stage 2 - From Zittau to Spindleruv Mlyn, 126 km

The early bird catches the worm! After a short city tour through Zittau, I cross the Neisse at Sieniawka and am in Poland. You now have the choice of driving around the open-cast mine on the right or left. Behind it lies Bogatynia, and after Bogatynia I cross the border to the Czech Republic again. In Frydland, the 13th-century castle of the same name towers over the Smeda River, you turn south. Road no. 290 follows the course of the river.

At Hejnice at the latest, you realise that today is a "mountain stage". Road 290 winds its way into the Jizera Mountains. When you see the Mountain hut "Horska Chata Smedava", you have done the rough part. You have reached about 800 metres above sea level.

Afterwards, the trail descends again, passing the artificial lake "vodni nadrz Sous". It is a pleasure to note that nature has recovered well in the last 20 years. There is no longer any sign of the forest dieback in the Jizera Mountains that was omnipresent in the 1980s. A second short climb to Horni Polubny takes you into the valley of the Jizera. Then always the main road to Vrchlabi. The ascent to Spindleruv Mlyn is flat, always along the river.

But I do notice that I have left some grains in the heat (we have about 30 degrees). The cramp now knocks regularly on the door and I try to avoid all jerky movements. Relaxation comes only with a cold Staropramen beer at the first grocery shop in Spindleruv Mlyn. I'm on schedule, the campsite at the opposite end of town. Now comes part 2 of today's stage: the hike to the source of the Elbe.

After a short consultation with the campsite warden, I set off at about 6pm - it is still possible to cycle for a while. The groundsman told me about two bridges that I had to cross in quick succession, but somehow I must have overlooked the second one. I have a map with me, but there are so many people coming towards me - they can only be coming from the source of the Elbe. And the river is right next to me.

It goes on like this for quite a long time. I would have expected a sign with "Pramen Labe" at some point, but that is completely missing. I only ever read "Bile Labe". Well, maybe it's also called Quelle. At some point I come to a lodge, and then I have to continue on foot. A group of schoolchildren is just starting out from the hut.

Well, they surely want to go to the source of the Elbe! I put my bike down and follow them. But then they turn off into the forest and at some point my path comes to an end - there's no sign of the Elbe. So I go back, following the children - but they are already out of sight. At some point in the forest I meet a young couple with a child. When I ask them how far it is to the source of the Elbe, they first look at me in surprise, then think a little and say: about 15km. Well, I am on the "wrong" Elbe, on the Bile Labe (the White Elbe). :-(

The time is already advanced. With a force action, the goal might still be achievable, but then my 4-day tour might be in question. Tomorrow it's supposed to go to Görlitz, which is 150km, including crossing the Giant Mountains.

So no false ambition. We take note: The mission has not been accomplished - BUT IT WOULD HAVE BEEN POSSIBLE.

Stage 3 - From Spindleruv Mlyn to Zgorzelec, 150 km

There were thunderstorms during the night. It only rained a little - fortunately, because my tent is pretty much in the run-off of the campsite. As I leave the campsite, the first drops fall and after a few minutes the steady rain sets in. That's not too bad. It is still warm and everything is packed away dry. We first take the same route as yesterday to Harrachov. The rain continues and it is time to warm up and dry off a bit. But I am too early. In Harrachov all the restaurants are still closed. So I continue. At the border crossing to Poland, we are about 900m above sea level again.

Just behind it is the "Bombaj" hotel. The last guests are still sitting at the breakfast table, the Olympic Games are on TV - I order a Golonka (knuckle of pork) at 10am and allow myself an hour's break. :-)

After that, the strategy is quite simple: just get out of the Giant Mountains quickly. Via Szklarska Poreba and (deviating from the plan) Jelenia Gora, I head towards Görlitz. The mountains are still in the clouds, but to the north it gets lighter. From Luban I am back on the route of the TatraPack tour from 2009. On arrival in Zgorzelec the sun is shining.

First I drive to the Neisse bridge, which we also crossed in 2009, and ask a few tourists for a "winning photo" ;-). Then I check into our old campsite in Zgorzelec, which somehow looks like a car dealership by now.

In general, a lot has changed in Zgorzelec compared to 2009. This applies first and foremost to the new consumer temples and churches on the outskirts of the city. A lot has been invested there.

Stage 4 - From Zgorzelec to Dresden, 114 km

There is not much to say here. I simply took the shortest route this time. Bautzen and Bischofswerda are always worth a stop, but I was in a hurry this time. I didn't make it until lunch, but it didn't get much later than that. ;-)

The Conclusion

The 2012 tour is complete. The source of the Elbe was not reached - but it was within the realm of possibility. Well - without a professional navigator you are sometimes in the wrong lane ;-) If anyone wants to do the tour (starting in Dresden): 2 days to get there, 2 days back and a day of hiking in the Giant Mountains are a great holiday idea. On your own, of course, it's only half as much fun. Also - and this was a new experience for me - it takes some getting used to being alone on a multi-day tour. You quickly get into dark corners where you feel a lukewarm feeling in your stomach - especially if you don't know the language ;-). On the other hand, you don't have to take care of anyone. But that is only a small consolation.

In the spirit of "a sorrow shared is a sorrow halved" and "a joy shared is a joy doubled", I hope for a respectable team again in 2013. :-)

the Oldi